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| If your fuel dash gauge starts to register intermittently, readings
fluctuate, or it just plain quits, it can most often be traced back to
the fuel tank sending unit. These units are always sitting in fuel.
They are constantly moving and they are subjected to vibrations. This
is why they are most often the cause for faulty or no readings on the
dash gauge. Replacing a fuel tank sending unit is a relatively easy job
that can be performed by anyone with a few good hand tools. When
Project 64's sending unit quit working, we contacted Zip Products, Inc.
They were able to supply all of the parts we needed to complete the
job. Before you start, there are some things you should keep in mind.
Run as much fuel as you can out of the tank. It is much easier to drain
4 or 5 gallons of gas than 20. Always work in a well ventilated area
and wear eye protection. With those few tips in mind, let's get started. |
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01: Here are the parts Zip sent: A sending unit, Sending Unit Gasket, the
Locking Ring and the Locking Ring Wrench. You will also need a drain
can compatible with fuel, some hand tools, rubber fuel hose and clamps,
emery cloth or sandpaper, hydraulic jack, jack stands, eye protection,
and, of course, a shop manual for your car. |
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02: Start by disconnecting the battery. Then remove the spare tire and carrier support from the car.
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03: Now remove the spare tire carrier. It is held in by the carrier latch support assembly and four additional bolts. |
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04: Carefully cut the rubber hose that goes from the sending unit to the
frame fuel line in half. Put a 3/8 bolt into the frame line end and let
the sending unit end drain the remaining fuel in the tank into your
drain pan. The reason I say to cut the rubber fuel hose instead of
saving it, is that I never recommend re-using the old rubber fuel hose.
It is much safer to use a new hose and it is much easier to do now than
when everything is reassembled. Also, use a drain pan that is
recommended for fuel use.
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05: When the fuel is drained out, take the locking ring removal tool, place
it on the locking ring tabs and unscrew the ring. This tool sure beats
using a hammer and screwdriver which is a method some people still use.
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06: It is a good idea to thoroughly clean the sending unit contacts. To
remove the spade connector from its retainer, slip a small screwdriver
into the receiving end, release the spade retainer tab. Now slide the
spade connector out of the back of the retainer. You can now thoroughly
clean the contact point. When you are finished, slide the connector
back into the retainer and lock it into place. |
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07: Take a new gas hose and using the old hose as a guide, cut a new length
of hose. It is also a good idea to replace the fuel hose clamps while
you are at it. These items are available from Zip. |
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08: Before you install the new sending unit, it is a good idea to compare
it to the old unit. Make sure the bends and connections are where they
should be. It is easier to find out if there is a problem now then
after you have installed it. |
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09: Here is something that you want to do before you install the sending
unit into the tank. Connect the sending unit wires to the sending unit
and re-connect the battery. Have a friend sit in the car. Turn the
ignition on and watch the fuel gauge. Holding the sending unit in your
hand, SLOWLY move the float on the unit. If everything is connected
correctly and the dash gauge is good, the dash needle should move in
accordance with the float. If it does, then you know everything is A-OK
and you are ready to re-install the sending unit. If the gauge does not
work correctly, then the problem lies with the wiring or the dash
gauge. Remember to disconnect the sending unit wires and the battery
before you continue. |
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10: Carefully slide the sending unit into the fuel tank. Make sure that you
place the sending unit gasket onto the sending unit before you install
it. (In this picture you can see it is already on the unit.) When the
sending unit and gasket are in place, slide the locking ring down over
the sending unit tabs.Then take the locking ring wrench and tighten the
locking ring until the locking tabs rest against the tank stops. Now
install the new fuel hose and clamps. Re-connect the sending unit
wiring and re-install the spare tire carrier assembly. Re-connect the
battery, replace the fuel and you are done. The fuel gauge is again
working correctly and you are ready for more cruisin'!
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SENDING UNIT :
63-67 CORVETTE FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT
SOURCE:
Zip Products, Inc.
8067 Fast Lane
Mechanicsville, VA 23111
(800) 962-9632
PARTS LIST:
The Author would like to thank Richard Gaudio of Greg Donahue Collector Car Restorations, Inc. for his
assistance with this article.
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