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Replacing the rear control arms in a 63 to 82 Corvette is one project
most people and repair shops want to avoid. Granted, it does take more
than the average mechanical ability and some special tools, but it is
not an impossible task to complete. As with any project, you will need
the right parts and Zip Products,
8067 Fast Lane, Mechanicsville, VA 23111, 800-962-9632, will be able to
supply all of your needs. You will also need a shop manual and an
assembly manual for your year Corvette. These two books are invaluable
whenever you are doing any type of repair.
The Sweepstakes 78 Corvette needed the rear
control arms replaced since the bushings were worn and one control arm
had a damaged bearing. We also replaced the strut rods and rear spring
mounts while we were at it to insure a like-new ride and handling.
Follow along as we complete the second phase of reconditioning our
Sweepstakes 78 Corvette by replacing the rear control arms. |
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01: These are all of the items that Zip supplied for
the rebuild: Complete control arms, strut rods, strut rod hardware,
U-joints and hardware for the half shafts, rear spring mounts, shock
absorbers and rubber bumpers. You will also need a shop and assembly
manuals, hydraulic jack, jack stands and a full set of hand tools. A
friend to help is also not a bad idea. |
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02: Place the car securely on jack stands and start by
removing the wheels. Use penetrating oil on all of the brake hose and
line connections. Use a line wrench to disconnect the brake caliper
line from the rubber brake hose. Remove the caliper bolts and remove
the caliper. Disconnect the emergency brake cable. The flexible brake
hose can be removed from the control arm bracket. Remember to put a
container under the brake hose to catch the fluid as it drains or use a
pair of small vise grips to pinch off the brake hose so that it will
not drain. |
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03: To remove the rear spring end mount, place a "C"
clamp 9" to 12" from the end of the spring. Place a wooden 2"x4" on the
jack pad and rest it up against the "C" clamp. The "C" clamp will act
as a stop so that the jack will not slip inboard. Raise the jack until
the entire load is off the spring. Remove the cotter key, then the nut,
bolt and cushions from the spring and control arm. When the bolt and
cushions are removed, slowly release the tension on the spring. |
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04: Spread open the tabs on the French locks (If they are still present) and remove the half shaft to spindle bolts.
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05: Loosen and remove the shock from its lower mount.
Remove the strut rod shaft retaining bolt. The strut rod shaft can now
be removed by pulling it towards the front of the vehicle. These shafts
sometimes will be seized in the mount and will have to be driven out.
Use a brass hammer or brass drift to tap the mount out of the spindle
support. If your strut rod shaft is damaged, can supply a new one.
NOTE: When the shock and strut rod is removed, the control arm will
want to drop. You may want to put the jack under the arm to keep it
from falling. |
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06: Before you remove the control arm, count the
number of shims on each side of the control arm. These shims will have
to be re-installed to retain the correct rear end alignment |
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07:Pull out the cotter key and spin off the control
arm mounting bolt nut. Now while supporting the control arm, tap the
mounting bolt out of the control arm. When it is free, remove the
control arm from the car. |
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08: Here you can clearly see the control arm shims and retaining key. |
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09: Disconnect and remove the shock absorbers. |
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10: Make an alignment mark on the strut rod cam bolt
and corresponding mark on the bracket. This will help you to re-align
the cam bolt in the same position when you re-install it. You can now
remove the cam bolt and strut rod.
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11: We are going to replace the U-joints in the half
shafts so they now can be removed. Disconnect the U-joint straps on the
rear end axle flange and carefully slide the half shafts out. Remember
to mark the shafts for the right or left side. |
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12: Unbolt and remove the upper rubber bumper. |
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13: Before you remove the U-joints, mark the shaft so
that you will know which end went towards the rear end and which went
towards the control arm. Without this mark, you will not be able to
tell one end of the shaft from the other with the U-joints removed. |
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14: Start the half shaft disassembly by removing the U-joint retaining clips. |
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15: Place the U-joint flange end in a vise. Support
one end of the flange with a 1 1/4" socket and use a 1/2" socket or lug
nut to push the U-joint cap into the flange. This will push the
opposite U-joint cup into the socket. When the cup is removed, press
the opposite cap out by pressing the U-joint shaft against the
remaining cap. Do this to remove all of the U-joints. |
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16: Start the re-assembly by using emery cloth to
clean each area on the flange where the U-joint cups are pressed into
place. Place one cap in the half shaft flange making sure it is
centered in the flange opening. Keep the U-joint centered in the cup
and slowly press the cup into the flange. Push the cup and U-joint in
until the shaft of the U-joint on the opposite end is centered in the
opposite flange. Now center the cup on this end and slowly push it into
place in the flange and over the U-joint shaft. NOTE: It is very
important that you keep the U-joint centered in the cup during
installation. This will keep the needle bearings aligned. If one of the
bearings falls into the bottom of the cup, you will not be able to
fully install the cups or clips. Can you say "Start Over?" |
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17: Use a lug nut or 1/2" socket to push one cup into
the flange so that the retaining clips can be installed. Install and
seat the clip. Now place the lug nut on the opposite side and push this
cup in so that the retaining clip can be installed. Make sure that the
U-joint is not bound in the flange. It should move without binding up. |
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18: With the cup retaining clips installed, use a flat chisel to fully seat each clip into its groove. |
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19: If your U-joints have grease fittings, make sure
that each fitting on each U-joint faces the center of the shaft. This
will make greasing them much easier when the shafts are installed. |
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20: Before you re-install the half
shaft, wrap masking tape around the rear end flange U-joint caps.
Nothing is worse than to have a cap fall off and needle bearings
rolling around on the floor.
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21: Start by re-installing the half shafts. After they are installed, grease them while they are easy to get to. |
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22: Remove the spindle flange from the old control
arms and clean it thoroughly. Check it for damage of worn splines.
Install it on the new control arm and torque it to specifications. |
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23: Remove the control arm shims, keeping the inner
and outer shims separate. Clean each shim using a wire brush and then
measure the thickness of each respective set. Zip can supply packages
of new shims that will allow you to re-shim each control arm. |
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24: Slide the new control arm into the mount. Then
slide the retaining bolt into place and snug the nut. The inner and
outer shims can now be installed. This sounds easier than it is. Once
you have one set started, tap it in along side the control arm. The
other set can be installed and tap those in. Remember, you will have to
have each set aligned so that the retaining pin can be placed through
all of the shims. NOTE: It is a good idea to use a jack to help support
the control arm during installation. |
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25: Slip the retaining pin through all of the shims
and spread the end. Torque the control arm bolt to specs and install
the cotter key. |
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26: Grease the strut rod bushing caps with white lithium grease.
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27: Install the strut rod and cap into the bracket and
install the cam bolt. Align the cam bolt mark with the mark on the
bracket and snug into place. DO NOT torque to specs. |
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28: Align the strut rod shaft and strut rod in the
spindle support. Tap it into the spindle support. Install the strut rod
shaft retaining bolt and torque to specs. Remember to install the
cotter key. Notice that we are using a hydraulic jack to help support
the control arm. |
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29: Install the half shaft to the spindle flange.
Remember to bend the French lock tabs down onto the bolts after they
have been torqued. The shock can be re-installed. |
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30: Place the "C" clamp, wood 2"x4" and jack just as
you did when you removed the spring mounting bolts. Jack the spring up
so that you can install the bolt, washer and cushions onto the rear
spring and control arm. When they are mounted, torque them to specs.
Now slowly release the pressure on the spring. Install the cotter key.
Remember, the bolt head is at the top and the curve of each washer
faces the spring. |
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31: Re-connect the emergency brake cable and the flexible brake hose to the control arm. |
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32: Install the rotor onto the axle flange. It is very
important to align this access hole with the hole in the axle flange.
This hole allows access to the emergency brake shoe adjustment. If it
is not aligned, you cannot adjust the emergency brake shoes without
pulling the caliper. You will only need to do this one time to remember
what a hassle it is to correct once you are done. |
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33: Install the rubber suspension bumper. |
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34: The caliper and steel brake line can now be
re-installed and the brake system bled. Also check and adjust the
emergency brake. Make sure all of the control arm bolts have been
torqued and cotter keys installed where necessary. Place the car on the
ground and roll it back and forth a few times. Now torque the strut rod
cam bolts to specs. After you are finished, your first stop should be
your favorite Corvette alignment shop to have the rear end alignment
checked. After this is done, you are ready for miles and miles of
trouble-free driving. Zip also provides installation service if you
still feel the need to leave this job to a professional. |
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REAR SUSPENSION:
63 TO 82 CORVETTE REAR CONTROL ARMS, STRUT RODS, AND REAR SPRING MOUNT REPLACEMENT
By: Greg Donahue
Photos by: Author
SOURCE:
Zip Products, Inc.
8067 Fast Lane
Mechanicsville, VA 23111
(800) 962-9632
PARTS LIST:
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