35: Install the new rear bearing and snap ring into the retainer and slide it down onto the shaft. Use a brass drift to tap it down into place. (In some instances you may have to press the bearing down onto the shaft.) Remember to put a new gasket onto the rear retainer.

36: Install 3rd gear, 3rd gear synchronizing hub, and synchronizing gear into place. Remember the taper of the synchronizing clutch assembly falls toward the front of the transmission. Now install the 2nd synchronizer gear and snap ring.

37: Install the roller bearings in the countergear. Use heavy grease (white lithium will work) to install the rollers, spacer, rollers, spacer, rollers, spacer in either end of the countergear.

38: Install the tanged washers in either end of the case. Use white grease to hold them into place. Carefully place the countergear into the case making sure the tanged washers do not fall. Slide a wood dowel just slightly smaller in diameter than the countershaft into the case and through the countergear. It should be longer than the case. This will hold the roller bearings and spacers in place inside of the countergear. Now carefully push the new countershaft into the case from the rear. As it is tapped through it will push the wooden dowel out of the front of the case keeping the roller bearings and spacers in place. (Hopefully!) I have had to replace roller bearings back in the countergear more than once.

43: Install the main drive gear into the case. (Make sure that the roller bearings do not fall.) Align and install the newly assembled mainshaft and retainer. With the mainshaft aligned, install the retaining bolt. Torque to specs. (You did install a new gasket, didn’t you?)

44: Place the bearing snap ring on the front bearing. Slide the bearing over the main shaft and tap the bearing into place on the case. A brass drift will work to accomplish this. Now install the new washer and snap bearing ring.

45: Install a new oil seal and gasket in the input shaft collar.

50: Place the 1st-2nd speed and 3rd-4th speed clutch sliding sleeve in neutral position. Pull reverse shift shaft partially out of extension and reverse shift fork as far forward in as possible. Start the extension onto the mainshaft while pushing in on the shifter shaft to engage the shift fork with the reverse gear shift collar. When the fork engages, rotate the shifter shaft to move the reverse gear rearward permitting the extension to mate against the transmission case. Install rear extension housing to case bolts. Install rear extension to rear bearing retainer bolts. Torque all bolts to recommended specification. Install reverse shifter shaft lock pin. (Remember, the lock pin will only go in from one direction.)

51: Remove and then install the new shifting fork shaft seals. A soft blow hammer can be used to tap them into place on the side cover plate.

52: Install the shifter shafts and detent plates. Stand the cover on one end and move the upper detent to one side. Now align the lower detent with the center boss. Install the sleeve, detent ball, spring, lock pin and second detent ball. Carefully align the upper detent plate and snap the detent ball into the detent. Be very careful. It is very easy to miss the upper detent and have the ball launch into space. Install a new gasket onto the side cover plate.

53: Align the shifting forks (They are going back into the original synchronizing assembly, aren’t they?) with their respective synchronizing assemblies. Push the forks into place and install the side cover bolts. I recommend using a sealer on each bolt to stop any small leaks that can occur.

54: Put a new O-ring on the speedometer gear and install it back into the tailshaft extension.

55: Make sure the forks are all in the neutral position. Now shift each shifting fork shaft while turning the mainshaft. Always remember to go back into the neutral position with each shaft before you shift the next shaft. Without gear lube in the transmission, it will shift hard, but you should be able to get each gear along with reverse. If you cannot get a gear, you will have to pull the cover and find out why. If everything checks out, re-install the transmission, fill with gear lube, and adjust the shifter. You are ready to go. No grinding, growling or noise, just quiet, smooth shifting.