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18: Carefully slide the input shaft out of the case. The inside of the shaft is full of roller bearings so be careful during removal or you will be chasing these bearings all over the shop floor.
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19: Use a dummy shaft to drive out the shaft of the countergear.
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20: Remove the countergear and tanged thrust washer from the case. Be careful upon removal because the counter shaft also has numerous needle roller bearings inside of it and these can go everywhere. Be sure to check down in the case for loose roller bearings.
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21: Carefully check this area of the mainshaft. It rides in the input shaft. If it has pits, scores, gouges, knicks or grooves, the mainshaft will have to be replaced.
Click to Enlarge 22: Remove the snap ring from the end of the mainshaft. Slide the washer, synchronizer and clutch assembly, synchronizer ring and 3rd gear from the mainshaft.

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Click to Enlarge 23: Remove the rear bearing snap ring from the shaft.
Click to Enlarge 24: Support the rear bearing retainer in a press and press the mainshaft out of the bearing.
Click to Enlarge 25: Remove the rear bearing to rear retainer snap ring and remove the bearing from the plate.
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26: Slide 1st and 2nd gears, synchronizer, clutch assembly, synchronizer ring and all washers from the mainshaft. Keep all of the respective gears in order. It is important to keep each clutch assembly with its gear assembly. You should also note which direction the clutch assembly faces. It can be assembled in either direction, but it will only work in one direction. (NOTE: In some instances you may have to press this assembly off the shaft.)
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27: Thoroughly clean the mainshaft, cases and gears. Clean off any gasket material. Check each gear for chips, cracks, heat discoloration or excessive wear. If any of these characteristics appear, replace the gear. Check the cases for cracks. Look for burrs on areas where bearings fit. A small file or sandpaper will usually repair any damages of this type.
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28: Synchronize hubs and sliding sleeves are selected assemblies and should be kept together as originally assembled. Mark the relation of the outer hub to the sleeve and its direction. Remove the two snap rings and push the sleeve out. The keys will also fall out. Thoroughly clean the hub and sleeve assemblies.
Click to Enlarge 29: After the assembly has been cleaned, start the re-assembly.  Place the keys into position on the hub.  Now while holding the keys in place, slide the sleeve down into the hub.  With the hub, sleeve and new keys in place install the new snap rings.

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Click to Enlarge 30: Pry the old oil seal out of the tailshaft housing. A seal remover or a large flat blade screwdriver will work.
Click to Enlarge 31: Use a bushing puller to remove the tailshaft bushing.
Click to Enlarge 32: Now install a new bushing and seal. A seal and bushing tool such as this makes installation a snap.
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33: Starting from the rear of the mainshaft, assemble the 2nd gear. (The hub of the gear faces the rear of the shaft.) Install the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizer clutch assembly. (The clutch sleeve taper is toward the rear. The hub to the front.) Also install the synchronizer ring. Make sure the ring fits all the way down into the hub and locks into the key.
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34: Position the 1st gear sleeve onto the shaft and push it down into place until the 2nd gear clutch assembly and sleeve bottom against the shoulder of the mainshaft. Install the new thrust washer. You can sure see the difference between the old and new.