3. Fortunately, resin-coated
gaskets hadn’t been used on this carburetor. Only a small bit of gasket
stuck to the main body. This material must be scraped off so that all surfaces
are absolutely clean. Scraping is easier after the carburetor has been dipped
in cleaner. Try to preserve as much of the gasket as possible and compare it
to the gaskets supplied in the rebuild kit to make sure they match.
4. Remove the needle and seat assembly next. First loosen and remove the lock
screw with a wide-bladed screwdriver. Then turn the adjusting nut with a 5/8"
wrench to move the needle-and-seat assembly up and out of the fuel bowl. Note
that this assembly threads into the float bowl and that the adjusting nut slips
over the top.
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2.
If a carburetor has been use for a long time, the screw gaskets tend to stick
to the bowl. They can usually be reused, so they should be pried from the bowl
and retained for future use. New screw gaskets are included in rebuild kits,
but it never hurts to have a few spares. Also note that most Holley gaskets
are coated with adhesive, which makes the float bowl and metering block difficult
to remove. A wide-bladed screwdriver or dynamite is usually needed to pry the
bowl off.
